Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee (BCMC) Supports Protection of Farley Ledges

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In 2007, the Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition (WMCC) successfully raised over $65,000 and purchased a 9 acre parcel at the base of Farley Ledge, in part due to a $6000 contribution from the BCMC and $5,000 from the Boston Chapter Executive Committee. This will allowed the WMCC to restrict non-climbing development at the base of the crag and provided the climbing community with sustainable access to the greatest climbing and bouldering resource in New England outside of the White Mountains or Rumney, NH.

Farley Ledge is largely owned by Northeast Utilities, but their site license contains a recreational stipulation requiring that they provide recreational opportunities. As a result, access issues were over the parking and approach trails.

Only 1.5 hours from downtown Boston, the rock quality is unrivaled, comparable to English grit in its best moments, and offers the only true multi-pitch experience in Massachusetts. Farley Ledge contains some of the states best traditional leads as well as many previously bolted sport climbs up to 5.13b. The recent bouldering explosion yielded some of the most impressive and hardest problems in the state (V12/V13). While being riddled with several test pieces, Farley Ledge also contains several moderate climbs and problems that are well worth the visit.

The rock at Farley, like much of rock in the area, is gneiss. It is characterized by big sloping horizontals, small edges and sweeping features. The climbing is best when friction is the highest. This translates generally into ideal spring and fall conditions though the heavily forested area provides ample shade for those hot summer days.

In the year’s following 2007 Farley Ledge has become a primary rock-climbing destination in New England, and it includes one of the most impressive sections of the nationally recognized Metacomet-Monadnock Trail, maintained by the AMC Berkshire Chapter. The area is used by hikers, hunters, bird watchers, bikers, rock-climbers, spelunkers, cross-country skiers, outdoor education groups, schools, and other outdoor enthusiasts. 

Announcing Our New Forums

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In the Fall of 2014 we sent a survey out to community members to determine how we can improve our online presence. Our community members were overwhelmingly looking for a way to better communicate with each other. In response, we have created interactive forums. These forums will achieve a few key goals:

  • Improve communications between program students and graduates
  • Improve communications between volunteers and organizing committees
  • Enable community members to make trip plans on contact each other
  • Foster a greater sense of community through beta-sharing, trip reports, and other climbing-related conversations

To sign up for the forums, simply go to forums.amcbostonclimbers.com and click the "register" button on the top menu bar. You'll see the main forums when you first register and an admin will grant you access to any private forums applicable to you shortly after registering.

You can post information in public forums, private forums, or send private messages to other members. Private forums are open only to authorized members. Private messages are seen only by the sender and recipient. For help or more information, contact forums@amcbostonclimbers.com.

Congratulation to Our 2014 Award Winners

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Congratulations to our 2014 award winners. 

Craigen Bowen Scholarship Recipients:

  • Katie Cisto
  • Alexa Rosenbloom
  • Alice Chiang

Scott Sandberg Volunteer of the Year Award:

  • Al Stebbins

Community Awards:

Chris Kreutzer – Super Genuine/Kind Badass Award
Pablo Acosta – Screamer of the Year Award
Tom Boydston – Micro Spike Award
Gary Fernandez – Most Active Old Dude Award
Linda Medeiros – Biggest Doghouse Award
Laura Ellis – Got Boothed Award
Lilly Vollmann – Three Doves Award
John Gassel – Most Mattresses Award
Katie Cisto – Best Double Entendre Involving a Climb Name
Kalmia – Accidental Innuendo Award
Jon Booth (& Lilly Vollmann) – Gratuitous Porta-Ledge Award

 

Apply for the Craigen Bowen Scholarship

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The Craigen Bowen Memorial Climbing Scholarship will be awarded to a climber who is a promising beginner in their first few years of climbing, or who is eager to advance in rock, ice, winter pursuits, outdoor safety or other similar mountaineering endeavors. The scholarship may be used to take some form of formal climbing related instruction offered by an established and reputable organization.

Applications will be accepted through Thanksgiving. The award will be presented each year at the Mountaineering Committee climbers’ holiday party.

Recipients must:

Attend the annual AMC climbers’ holiday party to receive their award.
Present a written report prior to the next AMC climbers’ holiday party to the Mountaineering Committee treasurer describing the program that the scholarship enabled them to take.


For more information contact: craigenaward@amcbostonclimbers.com