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Zeb Engberg Shares Trip Report on Alaskan Big Wall

  • Arc'Teryx Newbury Street Boston, MA United States (map)
The west face of Xanadu. [Photo] Engberg, Bain, Boning and Braasch collection

The west face of Xanadu. [Photo] Engberg, Bain, Boning and Braasch collection

"Xanadu itself sits as the centerpiece of the Arrigetch range. Although its summit is not strictly the highest peak in the region, its ever-present mass, the aesthetic geometry of its walls, the sheer steepness of all of its facets, and its situation at the headwaters of the Arrigetch Creek give the peak a feeling of utmost prominence within the range. Its eastern aspect is shadowed, stark, and glaciated, whereas its western side appears fertile for climbing. Because the west-facing wall of Xanadu is difficult to access from Circle Lake, it feels desolate yet sublime..." - Zeb Engberg

Come hear notable climbers Zeb Engberg and Billy Braasch talk about their recent first ascent of the central west face of Xanadu - a route they called Golden Petals (V 5.13+, 14 pitches).

Notable climber and author Jon Krakauer laid praise on the team saying: "Climbing this wall was first envisioned by the late Mugs Stump when he saw a photo of it in my house more than 30 years ago. Mugs would be stoked that his vision has finally been realized."

Krakauer and Mugs Stump were not wrong in believing the ascent of this wall would be groudbreaking. The skills required to climb what is often refered to as the Half Dome of the Arctic cannot be understated. With a V10 boulder problem off the ground as the start of the route, mandatory runout 5.12+ free climbing, and the sheer remoteness and level of commitment involved all add up to make this a truly incredible feat. Don't miss out on this opportunity to meet comtemporary pioneers in our sport as they talk about their experience.

Drinks will be served to those with a valid ID.

Earlier Event: November 6
2018 Ice Program - Application Opens
Later Event: November 18
1 Day Advanced Skills